Italy > Arezzo
Arezzo
The Milanese have a bad memory of Anghiari, a fascinating town in the province
of Arezzo. Here, on 29 June 1440, Filippo Maria Visconti, Duke of Milan, gave
up all of his expansionist claims to the Italian Peninsula when he was defeated
in a bloody battle by Florentine, Venetian and Papal Confederate troops.
During the Lombard period, Anghiari
developed as a center, a compact elliptical
cliff-top town overlooking the Tiber valley and
the Sovara torrent. In 1104, the Camaldolese
established an abbey around which, over
time, another part of the town, known as the
"Borghetto", became established. All this,
between 1181 and 1204, was closely packed
inside an outer perimeter wall.
A feature of the area called "ruga della
Croce", meaning 'furrow of the Cross',
is a 6 kilometre straight stretch of road
joining Anghiari to Sansepolcro. It was
commissioned by Bishop Guido Tarlati at
the beginning of the fourteenth century as
an emblem of the territorial and political
unity that had been achieved. Convents
and commercial establishments were later
established along the line of the furrow and at
the top of steep slope at the road's terminus
is the porch of the sixteenth century Church
of the Cross
Piazza Baldaccio - formerly known by
the name of Mercatale - links the post-
fourteenth century urban structure, defined
by the furrow, with the older part of the town.
It was also the place of trade and it was for
this reason that, in 1889, on one side of the
square, the Magi Gallery was built to form
a sort of town living room in similar fashion
to the famous glass and steel galleries to be
found in Milan and Naples
By the Via Trieste steps, you enter the
old town worthy of the best Tuscan
tradition, with the damp-looking
pavements of the side streets
and ramps of steps, the
hard crust of homes
whose colour changes
with the passing of
the sun and the
herring-boning of
brick tiles. The road
passes in front of
the provost church,
dedicated to Our
Lady of Grace,
which, though built
in the eighteenth
century, conserves
older works of art?
such as the long painting depicting the Last
Supper by Giovanni Antonio Sogliani of 1531.
The nearby Piazza del Popolo is dominated
by the Praetorian Palace, embellished with
coats of arms and sandstone rich in frescoes.
In the lobby you notice a large fresco of
Justice dating back to the fifteenth century,
perhaps the work of Antonio dAnghiari. At
noon of the square stands the large structure
considered to be an adaptation of the
Camaldolese convent. This is the church of
the Badia and its curious asymmetry is due
to its location on a previous rupestrian place
of worship. Treasures to be seen include
a wooden crucifix of the late thirteenth
century and the fourteenth century wooden
Madonna by Tino da Camaino. From the
church it is easy to get around the walls
to enjoy the view over the Tiber Valley. The
highest point of the town is marked by
the Clock Tower, originally constructed
in the thirteenth century but rebuilt in the
seventeenth century.
In Borghetto, stands the Taglieschi Palace,
to which, after the annexation of the town in
the fifteenth century to Florence, new, highly
prized architectural and decorative elements
were added. Now the seat of the State
Museum, the palace houses a remarkable
collection of architectural fragments,
paintings, sculptures and frescos from all
over the Tiber Valley.
Anghiari has two other museums. The first,
in Marzocco Palace, where reconstructions
and models of the famous battle of 1440
are on exhibit. The second, the Museum
of the Misericordia, is where items and
equipment used for the treatment of
patients in the hospital of the same name,
which was founded in 1348 in response to
plague epidemics.
The atmosphere of the town is enlivened
throughout by the many workshops and
antiques shops. Anghiari is also known
for its Centre for the restoration of antique
furniture. The annual Tovaglia a quadri
(chequered tablecloth) event, where
residents and guests are able to enjoy a
delicious four-course dinner accompanied by
stories narrated by actors and musicians, is
unique to the town.
Reason for awarding
the Orange Flag
The town stands out by virtue of the
value, variety and usability of its
attractions, good sign-posting and
the many opportunities for people to
appreciate the local food and craft
traditions, all features which animate
the old town.
Reason for awarding the Orange Flag The town stands out by virtue of the value,
variety and usability of its attractions, good sign-posting and the many opportunities
for people to appreciate the local food and craft traditions, all features which
animate the old town.
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